We may be the last living people that make quiche outside of France. It seems to have gone out of fashion, but we still love it. We made one today in fact—fat scallions from the farmers’ market in a creamy custard with a flaky, buttery crust. Maybe we’ll call it tarte à l’oignon, it has a tonier ring. In the words of Gomez Addams, “I love it when you speak French to me”.