It’s Day 4 of a week of cold summer soups. If not now, in the heart/heat of mid-summer, when would be a better time for a classic vichyssoise with a plop of sour cream and lots of chopped chives? Just sauté 2 chopped, well-washed leeks in 2 tablespoons of good butter, and add 2 quartered peeled russet potatoes and 2 cups chicken stock. Simmer until all the vegetables are soft. Purée in a blender, adding cold milk, half & half, or cream to thin. We like this velvety, smooth soup highly seasoned so we are liberal with the salt and white pepper—chilled foods require a little extra sodium to liven up their flavor. The poor old pomme de terre (along with a lot of carbs) has gotten a bad rap recently, but we stand by it. It has always stood by us, lifting any small slump in our spirits.