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Hallelujah, for our first asparagus of the season—we’ve been dreaming of their green grassy flavor all winter long. We peel away the skin and little fins that hide grit and dirt, but leave each stalk long and untrimmed. There’s only one way to eat these zaftig beauties: Dispense with knife and fork and eat the supple, butter-drenched spears with your fingers.

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