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We lunched today as the nice people in Nice do—on a summer salad of garden lettuce, cucumbers, radishes, little potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, a can of olive oil-packed tuna, fresh chives, and a little crumbled bacon to add a rich salty flavor (this the French would never do!). We tossed everything in a preserved lemon vinaigrette—we can’t get enough of that flavor. No tomatoes yet, so we’ll just have to wait. Bon appétit.

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