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We found a lovely piece of wild South East Alaskan king salmon hiding in the freezer. Guess it is used to the cold. We rubbed it with salt and coarsely ground black pepper and seared it in a cast-iron skillet. It formed a crisp crust, while the flesh was lovely and tender. A green sauce was a piquant foil and a gratin of swiss chard from the garden added an earthy note—surf and turf. We’ve been eating too well. Tomorrow it’s sliced tomatoes and lettuce with lemon dressing.

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