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The town farm stand has white sweet potatoes now. We remembered how good they were last year, so we bought a basketful. We fried a ham steak in a black cast-iron skillet, baked a sweet potato and served it sprinkled with the last of our window-box chives. The French call sweet and salty—sucré et salé. Sounds fancy for such a simple lunch but that’s just what it tasted like. Try it, dear friends, on this lovely Columbus Day weekend.

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