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It feels hot and muggy, like late-June should. So gazpacho floated up to the top of the menu. It showed up right on cue, all dressed up with tiny, crisp croutons, a confetti of tomato and cucumber, and though it isn’t authentic, a sprinkle of chives from our window box. They go on everything we cook this time of year. One spoonful and summer memories come flooding back.

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