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Here we are on this first day of autumn with the best of summer’s tomatoes—deep-red throughout and sweet and juicy. But our tastes have changed, just as the season has. Instead of our summer regime of sliced, peeled tomatoes, we opted to roast them with a spatchcocked chicken in a very hot oven until their skins blistered and they gave up their meaty juices to make a rich sauce. Then we threw in a handful of little zucchini to roast in the pan with the bird. We set up our little folding table and ate lunch sitting by the open doors overlooking the canal—it felt like we were on a house boat. Happy Fall, dear friends.

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