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We had a hankering for Wolfgang Puck’s great chicken salad from his Santa Monica restaurant, Chinois on Main. But it was too far to go for lunch. So we made it from memory, with shredded poached chicken, lots of crunchy greens like Napa cabbage, romaine, chopped fennel, scallions, and aromatic cilantro, all tossed in a rice vinegar and sesame-flavored dressing, then garnished it with strips of fried wonton skins. As we munched and crunched through the salad, the sun broke through the clouds—California dreaming.

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