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When you buy a whole duck and carve off the legs (as we did for lunch on Monday), you’re left with two choice parts—the breast and liver. So it’s duck for lunch again today. We seasoned the breast with salt and pepper and slowly browned it, skin side down, then turned it over, and finished cooking it until it was just rosy pink inside. The liver got the same treatment. A big escarole salad with scallions and a mustardy vinaigrette seemed a good fit. And so it was, with crisp cubes of pancetta. One of us likes duck liver, the other not so much. So extra pancetta went to the one who didn’t get the liver. We always try to be fair with each other.

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