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Local asparagus have arrived. Amen. And plump English peas, though not local, are showing up at the farmers’ market as well. As cool early spring eases into warmer weather, we are still on a cooking cusp between two seasons. Today’s lunch for example: we braised sweet asparagus and peas in butter and olive oil with bitter radicchio leaves (our go-to winter lettuce), a little lemon zest, and some salt and pepper. This is our delicious, bitter-sweet story for the day.

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