We were all set to have a big leafy salad piled on top of a pork cutlet for lunch today. But a stop at our local garden nursery this morning to pick up some vegetable plants changed our plans. The nice owner, Li-fan Huang, cultivates big fat shiitake mushrooms, an even “more perfect” accompaniment to the pork. So we grabbed a bag, sautéed the fungi along with the cutlets, and served them together with a little soy pan sauce and some sliced chives. Mmmm—meat on meat.