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Today we made a quintessentially autumn lunch: roasted sweet dumpling squash and sweet potatoes (or  yams) simply seasoned with butter, salt, and freshly ground black. We ate with gusto, while we sipped tiny glasses of Danilo Thomain Enfer d’Arvier, a rare wine from a vineyard “in the shadow of Mont Blanc” in the Valle d’Aosta. It was a beautiful pairing and a good way to start the week.

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