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Today lunch was salmon bathed in lemon butter sauce with braised scallions and little boiled potatoes. Kinda fancy but very simple to make. The sauce makes anything taste luxurious. Here’s how you make it—Whisk 2 egg yolks and 1 tablespoon of water together in a small heavy saucepan over very low heat (you don’t want the eggs to scramble!). Whisk in 1 tablespoon of cold butter until it has melted into the sauce, and continue this way until you have whisked in a total of 8 tablespoons butter. The sauce will have thickened nicely. (If it separates, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in another piece of cold butter to cool the sauce down. It should come back together.) Remove from the heat and add the juice of half a lemon. Season with salt and a pinch of cayenne.

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