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Today, on this Ash Wednesday and Valentine’s Day, we are playing it in the middle—neither fasting, nor over indulging in aphrodisiacs. So, we are having a modest lunch: fat wedges of ripe Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam on walnut-studded toast slathered with salted butter; French breakfast radishes; and two thimbles of 2014 Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti to keep us hydrated. We are promising ourselves to practice more self-discipline tomorrow—but no kneeling in raw rice.

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