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All year long we wait for this season when the last of the spring vegetables give way to summer’s bounty: shucked English peas; baby white turnips (sweet as candy); small, firm yellow squash and zucchini (plus two pinky-size zucchini); spring onions; a not-quite-dead-ripe tomato (peeled of course); zucchini flowers; and a handful of foraged chanterelles. We let the vegetables sing their own song, doing nothing more than blanching or stewing them with fresh tarragon, bathing them in lots of salted butter, adding a splash of extra-virgin olive oil, and seasoning them with a crushed pepperoncini, salt, and pepper. Who needs meat, pasta, or anything else when the vegetables are as spectacular as this?

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